Friday, November 21, 2008

Berea Trip Report #3: Nemot00ls meets Adam Cherubini


This is the last Berea trip report, I promise. I had the great opportunity to sit in on a couple of Adam Cherubini's lectures. He's a unique personality and very knowledgeable. His mortise chopping technique was very different from Frank Klaus's, and I think I may try melding the two together.

First, Adam only scribes one line with the grain, not two, and chops to the line. This makes sense. If the mortise chisel is the width of the tennon, what other mark do you need? I know that I have had slight accuracy issues when my mortise marker was not exactly set to the width of my chisel. Which of the two lines to follow? Stick to one or the other? Try to stay in the middle? Getting rid of one of the lines just simplifies the issue.

Secondly, he pares, bevel up, a shallow groove to outline the mortise before chopping. This serves to help further in aligning and registering the chisel. His technique, if I can describe it properly, was to hold the mortise chisel like a pen in one hand, with that elbow flat on the bench for bracing and orientation, and while holding the handle with his other hand, leaning into the chisel with his shoulder. This sounds like serious contortion, but it looked pretty easy. I'm going to try it. If I can get a photograph of myself doing this, I'll post it. I will say that the big broad handle of the pig sticker mortise chisel lent itself to nesting against a shoulder so maybe Adam's contention makes sense that paring with your shoulder leaning into the chisel is the ergonomic way to do it.

My only concern is that a high bench would be the best choice for this technique, but a low bench works best for planing. Does this lead you to a need for two benches?

3 comments:

Adam Cherubini said...

The chisel is almost always bevel down. I'll use a double pin (mortise) gauge when I want the faces of the stile and rail co-planer. On my 17th c "forme", that wasn't the case. Instead of having 2 mortising gauges, one set for the mortise, one for the tenon, or worse, readjusting a single gauge, I worked to a single line.

The mortise gauge is really best for the tenon. In fact, it would be better to think of it as a tenon gauge. It's good to use it for the mortise as a sanity check; my version of measure twice, cut once. Otherwise, you don't need it.

Adam

Roy Anderson said...

Adam,
Thanks for the clarification.

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